Every figure and quote on this site comes from one of these documents. Each entry shows the words we rely on, when we checked them and when we check them again.
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B&Q
How to fit wall plugs
Not linked, at the publisher's request: https://www.diy.com/ideas-advice/how-to-fit-wall-plugs/CC_npcart_400142.art
If you're drilling into a plasterboard wall, a multi-surface drill bit is recommended. For brick walls, always use a masonry drill bit.
multi-surface drill bit
masonry drill bit
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Before fitting a wall plug, always use a detector to check there are no cables or pipes behind the area where you want to drill.
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If you're drilling into a plasterboard wall, you can also check where the timber studs are. If you find a timber stud where you want to drill, you won't need to use a wall plug.
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A variety of different sizes are available, so always check the maximum load to ensure your wall plugs will support whatever you want to hang from the wall.
You'll need to drill into the wall slightly deeper than the length of the plug, so hold the wall plug up to your drill bit and mark its length with the tape.
If you're using the wall plug to hang an item such as a clock or picture frame, remember not to drive the screw in all the way.
It’s generally not recommended to reuse wall plugs. Once they’ve been used, they may not hold as securely when removed and reinserted.
Wall plugs are required for hollow walls like plasterboard, and solid walls such as brick or concrete. In general, screws can be inserted directly into wood without the use of plugs.
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Bosch DIY
Better safe than sorry: take the time to check the walls before you start drilling
Place the other hand flat against the wall, around 20-30 cm away from the detection device.
If there is insufficient grounding, for example, due to insulating footwear, or if you are standing on a conductor, it won’t be possible to detect live cables.
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A cable must have a current in order to be picked up by the device.
To ensure the device can find the power supply, switch on electrical items such as a light or vacuum cleaner.
To avoid confusing the detection device, don't wear any jewellery on your fingers or hands.
Please note: for your own safety, after detection you should switch off the power supply completely before you start drilling.
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First you need to find out what type of material your wall is made from, which is best done by drilling a small test hole.
Always switch off the hammer or percussion functions of your drill, as the vibrations could damage the tile.
The drill speed should not exceed 1,000 rpm.
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Remember that the wall anchor can only hold as much weight as its wall
The depth of your hole will depend on the wall plug you’re using.
Choose the right drill bit. Use glass and tile drill bits for soft and medium tiles and diamond drill bits for drilling porcelain and natural stone tiles.
Always switch to a masonry drill bit to drill into the masonry behind the tile.
Masonry drill bits have limited suitability when drilling tiles and are best used when there is already a hole in the surface and the bit reaches the wall behind.
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Instead of drilling directly into the tiles, you can drill through the tile joints instead.
However, only holes and wall plugs that are smaller than the joint itself are suitable. You cannot attach heavy cabinets like this.
Drilling through joints is much like drilling into tiles, except you use a masonry drill bit from the start.
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Always consult your landlord before drilling.
Apply a low pressure when drilling tile, as excessive force could cause the entire tile to crack. The drill speed should not exceed 1,000 rpm.
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Dunelm
How to put up curtain poles and curtain tracks
Not linked, at the publisher's request: https://www.dunelm.com/info/buying-guides/how-to-put-up-curtain-tracks-and-poles
We recommend that your curtain pole sits 10cm above the window, and is longer than the length of your window by 10cm on either side.
10cm
If fitting heavyweight curtains or a pole over 180cm, you will also need a central bracket.
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Windsor Blackout Made to Measure Roller Blind, No Drill Bracket option
Not linked, at the publisher's request: https://www.dunelm.com/product/windsor-blackout-made-to-measure-roller-blind-1000297911
twist-to-tighten No-Drill bracket
Please note, our No Drill bracket is made to hold roller blinds up to their recommended maximum weight (maximum width 180cm, maximum drop 220cm).
To ensure long-lasting performance, we advise against usage beyond normal everyday operation.
Installation of our No Drill blind does not require a drill, but a drill is required to fit the P-clip.
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Our standard bracket option includes brackets and screws designed to be installed on the inside or outside of your window recess. A drill and screwdriver are required to install.
A breakaway device is fitted to this blind. This is designed to ensure the chain loop is broken when force is applied to the chain.
Remember it is required that cables buried in walls are installed either horizontally or vertically from electrical accessories like socket-outlets or switches.
A quality cable detector can help track buried cables before you start work.
Drilling, nailing or screwing close to cables in the wall.
For any DIY near electrical wiring or power supplies, switch off the power at your fuseboard and, where possible, only use battery-powered tools.
The fischer DuoPower 6 x 50, 8 x 65 and 10 x 80, because of the larger anchorage depth, are particularly suitable for fixings in hollow building materials, aerated concrete and for bridge plaster.
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The required screw length is given by the plug length + fixture thickness + 1x the screw diameter.
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 10 x 50: 10 mm
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 5 x 25: 5 mm
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DuoPower 6 x 30
Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 30: 6 mm
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DuoPower 6 x 50
Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 50: 6 mm
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DuoPower 8 x 40
50 mm
Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 40: 8 mm
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 65: 8 mm
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 10 x 50: 20 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 10 x 50: 215 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 10 x 50: 15 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 10 x 50: 120 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 10 x 50: 25 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 5 x 25: 5 kg
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Max. load in concrete 40 kg
Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 5 x 25: 40 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 5 x 25: 12 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 5 x 25: 30 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 5 x 25: 13 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 30: 10 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 30: 95 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 30: 15 kg
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Max. load in solid brick 50 kg
Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 30: 50 kg
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vertically perforated brick
Max. load in vertically perforated brick 15 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 50: 15 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 50: 165 kg
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Cited for the words above.
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Max. load in solid brick 55 kg
Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 50: 55 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 6 x 50: 17 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 40: 10 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 40: 110 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 40: 15 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 40: 62 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 40: 25 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 65: 16 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 65: 230 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 65: 69 kg
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Figure used: Fischer DuoPower 8 x 65: 40 kg
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The fischer DuoPower adjusts itself automatically to the building material and transfers the highest loads through the three product functions of folding, expanding and knotting.
Due to the noticeable tightening torque, the user automatically recognizes when the screw is properly installed and thus prevents overtightening of the screw.
Thanks to its four-way expansion, the fischer SX Plus expansion plug is the specialist for solid building materials such as concrete, sand-lime brick and masonry.
During installation, the expanding arms swing open and press onto the reverse side of the board.
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Figure used: Fischer HM 4 x 32 S K NV: 8 mm
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HM 5 x 37
M5 x 44
Figure used: Fischer HM 5 x 37 S K NV: 10 mm
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Figure used: Fischer HM 5 x 52 S K NV: 10 mm
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The fixing should be selected based on the thickness of the board building material, to allow the very best expansion in the cavity.
The plug is set in the pre-positioned installation using the installation pliers fischer HM-Z 1.
The plug is pulled against the panel building materials using the pliers. The expanding arms swing open and press onto the reverse side of the board.
Alternatively, installation is also possible with a screwdriver or cordless screwdriver.
If using a battery operated screwdriver or screwdriver for installation, the pre-assembled screws must be removed first.
When screwing in and expanding the fixing, the attachment, or a max. 6 mm plate, needs to be used as a turning stop.
The claws around the edge of the fixing penetrate the board building material, preventing the fixing from rotating, thus ensuring a secure installation.
The fischer metal cavity fixing HM is suitable for fixing lighting, pictures and light shelves indoors.
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Loads, DuoPower, recommended loads for a single anchor
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Although this guide focuses on cookies, regulation 6 actually applies to anyone who stores information on a user’s device or gains access to information on a user’s device, in either case by any method.
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The default position is that supplementary provisions are incorporated as supplementary terms of an occupation contract. However, at the creation of the occupation contract, the parties may agree that a supplementary provision is modified or that it is not included in the occupation contract.
Regulation 27 requires the landlord to provide an inventory to the contract-holder, within a specified timescale.
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Regulations in Part 6 set out supplementary provisions applying only to standard contracts other than introductory standard contracts, prohibited conduct standard contracts and supported standard contracts.
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Renting Homes (Supplementary Provisions) (Wales) Regulations 2022, regulation 29
any addition to or alteration of the fixtures and fittings in the dwelling
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The contract-holder must not make any alteration to the dwelling without the consent of the landlord.
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NICEIC, in Professional Electrician
Why contractors need to apply due diligence when installing cables embedded in thin walls or partitions
Not linked, at the publisher's request: https://professional-electrician.com/technical/why-contractors-need-to-apply-due-diligence-when-installing-cables-embedded-in-thin-walls-or-partitions-niceic/
BS 7671
Regulation 522.6.202
14 August, 2023
cables installed in a wall or partition of traditional construction (for example brick, block or timber) at a depth of less than 50 mm from the surface of the wall or partition.
BS 7671 treats walls or partitions containing significant metal parts differently to those with a traditional construction using timber studding.
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the requirements of regulation 522.6.202 may also be met by complying with one or more of the methods given in regulation 522.6.204
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Where the position of an accessory, point or item of switchgear can be determined from the reverse side of a wall or partition less than 100 mm thick, then the zone also extends to the reverse side.
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within 150 mm of the top of the wall or partition
within 150 mm of an angle formed by two adjoining walls or partitions
must be routed to the point, accessory or item of switchgear, only in a zone running horizontally or vertically
Figure used: BS 7671 regulation 522.6.202 prescribed zones, as NICEIC words them (Professional Electrician, 14 August 2023): 150 mm
Yellow and red are for regular duty, while the brown fixing is for heavy duty.
2024/5
3 - 4mm
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Some hollow wall fixings will not work if the cavity is less than about 25mm deep
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Reddish or yellowish dust shows you have brick walls
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Dark grey dust (and slow drill progress) shows you have concrete block walls
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Grey sandy dust (and possibly sawdust if you hit a lath) shows you have lath and plaster walls and ceilings
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Fine white dust and paper shreds on the drill bit shows you have plasterboard
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Light grey dust (and easy drill progress) shows you have thermal block walls
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Hollow walls and ceilings may be surfaced with lath and plaster (pre-1920's houses) or plasterboard
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Sandy dust means you have hit a mortar joint. Drill a second hole about 50mm away from the first and 45º above it to confirm the wall type
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Thermal Block Fixings Clip Pack x 40, includes Drill Bit and Driver
This plug cuts its own thread in Thermal Block to give a superior grip within the "crumbly" material
Drill hole using 8mm drill bit provided
Secure fixture with a No.10 (5mm) full threaded screw
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It is likely to be found in post 1960's buildings making up the inner skin of the walls.
Thermal Block can easily be drilled using a HSS drill bit, making it easy to distinguish from solid concrete black ("breeze block") which requires a masonry drill.
HSS drill bit
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Plasterboard walls vary in thickness because boards come in different gauges and wall coverings, like tiles, also make walls deeper.
Use a HSS drill bit for hollow walls
On external walls with hollow dry lining, drill through the plaster or plasterboard lining until you hit solid masonry
Withdraw the drill and measure off the cavity depth.
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Solid wall may be built of brick, dense block or thermal (lightweight) block
Identify which type you have by drilling a test hole and examining the drill dust
For general work into solid walls, these fixings are just made for the job.
The Housing (Scotland) Act 2025 gives private tenants greater rights to personalise and decorate their home, after living there for 6 months. A date for this change coming into force has not been set yet. Further secondary legislation is required.
Category 1: minor changes tenants can make without the landlord's consent, such as putting up posters or pictures
Category 2: larger changes tenants can request, which cannot be unreasonably refused, such as painting walls or putting up shelves
For Category 2 changes, tenants must have lived in the let property for 6 months.
The specific changes that fall under each category will be set out in regulations following further consultation.
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Shelter England
Cleaning, gardening or decorating (deposit deductions, last updated 6 May 2024)
If you have photos or videos from when you moved in, they could show what the property looked like and if there have been changes.
The schemes prefer digital photos because they can check the dates and they are often clearer.
Make a video on the day you move out. A video could show the exact condition you left the property in.
Compare your inventory from when you moved in with the check out report.
The scheme decides if you should get your full deposit back or if your landlord can keep some.
A landlord needs to show proof of the property's condition at the start and end of your tenancy if they want to keep money for damage or cleaning charges.
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How to get your deposit back (last updated 1 May 2026)
10-13mm extendable tension rods are made from durable powder-coated aluminium, offering an easy-to-use solution for lightweight curtains, nets, and voiles.
If the surface of your bathroom is not suitable for tesa® Power.Kit technology, alternatives are available. You can also use a shower tray or a shower basket for hanging.
The adhesive needs to cure for twelve hours. Do not touch the adapter during this time and definitely do not check the strength.
The tesa® Power.Kit securely latches onto loose plaster. Our technology is stronger than the surface and might tear it off the wall.
The varnish might not be stable enough to keep stuck on the wall once our glue is applied.
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The high-quality materials are durable and designed to hold up to 5 kg.
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tesa Smooz Bathrobe Hook, Product Information 40630, en-GB, as of 13/01/26
With a holding power of up to 3 kg per strip and its extra large size, they are ideal to securely fix objects to smooth surfaces and tiles.
First stretch the tab of the Powerstrip® to around 3-5 cm, hold object tight - don't press it on, and keep stretching the Powerstrip® parallel to the surface
(do not pull strip away from the surface, as Powerstrip® may rip)
Specially developed for humid environments and usage directly in the shower and bathtub area
Powerstrips® Waterproof XL strips may be used on its own or to remount tesa® Lavaa and tesa® Baboo products.
Wipe the waterproof primer over the surface using the primer tissue- wait for 10 seconds to allow the primer to evaporate
5 seconds
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Self-adhesive strips for hanging and mounting objects in bathrooms of up to 3 kg
Adheres to glazed tiles, marble, metal, glass, wood, and plastics (ABS, PS, Acrylic Glass)
Application temperature from 15 °C
Technical Information (average values)
The values in this section should be considered representative or typical only and should not be used for specification purposes.
Not suitable for stone, cement, wallpaper, plaster, enamel varnish and plastics such as PP, PE and PTFE
Holding power of strip up to 3 Kg
Figure used: Tesa Waterproof Strips Xtra Large (Powerstrips Waterproof XL, BNR 40519): 3 kg
The purpose of this standard is to define mounting interface standards for Flat Displays (FDs) such as flat panel monitors, flat displays and flat TVs.
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305 mm
583 mm
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584 mm
786 mm
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787 mm
2286 mm
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Figure used: FDMI Part D, 305 to 583 mm (12 to 22.9 in) diagonal: 14 kg
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Figure used: FDMI Part E, 584 to 786 mm (23 to 30.9 in) diagonal: 22.7 kg
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Figure used: FDMI Part F, 787 to 2286 mm (31 to 90 in) diagonal: 113.6 kg
Mark this point and then check whether the next upright is placed at 450 mm or 600 mm.
You can use a flat TV wall mount (for example, the COMFORT Fixed, suitable for a 450 or 600 mm frame) that bridges the space between the two wooden uprights.
The first step is checking the framework of your plasterboard wall.
This is necessary because metal studs are relatively pliable.
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When you pull forward or turn a full-motion TV wall mount, extra force is applied to the wall. A plasterboard wall with wooden profiles cannot withstand this.
For heavier TVs, it is recommended to reinforce the plasterboard to mount your TV safely.
If you wish to install your TV wall bracket on a hollow wall, such as hollow bricks, wooden panels or plasterboard, we recommend that you contact a qualified installer and/or specialist for the safest results.
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In most cases, it is recommended that both wooden and metal stud profiles are placed at a centre-to-centre (c.t.c.) distance of 600 mm, although in some cases it may be 450 mm.
For wooden profiles, you check this by knocking on the wall until you find a place that sounds less hollow.
For metal stud profiles, you use a pipe finder, which allows you to detect the metal profiles.
Please note: you can not be sure whether the upright profiles are correctly fixed to the floor or ceiling. If in doubt, we always recommend consulting an expert.
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If you want to mount your TV on a metal stud wall, the wall must be reinforced with an extra back plate of sufficient thickness (underlayment).
It is important for the rear wall to be sufficiently thick (approximately 18 mm, together with the plasterboard approximately 30.5 mm or thicker) and to be securely fixed
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Normally, 12 mm plasterboard is used for a single wall.
To ascertain what mounting materials you need, drill a hole with a small drill at the locations of both uprights.
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The adapter fits stud distances of 16, 20 and 24 inches and 450 and 600 mm. The maximum weight capacity of the stud adapter is 75 kg.
A TV floor stand allows you to place your TV anywhere in your room or even move it to a different room.
Would you prefer not to drill into the wall to mount your TV? Do you want to be able to move your TV flexibly? Then a TV floor stand is the perfect solution for you.
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Once you've picked out your wall plug, you'll need a drill bit that matches its size. To do this, you need to hold the fixing next to your drill bits and choose the one that matches its diameter.
Bear in mind that if you're drilling into a brick wall, you'll need a masonry drill bit, and for plasterboard you can use a standard multi-purpose bit.
To know exactly where the solid sections are, you can use a stud detector.
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Plasterboard: This is one of the weaker wall types, so wouldn’t be the best choice for a particularly heavy shelf.
It’s advisable to screw your fixings into this frame as it will better support weight.
these walls are generally supported by a frame so there will be vertical and horizontal sections that feel a little more solid
If you’re unable to place all of your screws into the frame, you can also use fixings that will anchor themselves to the back of the plasterboard, making them harder to pull out.
brackets do still vary in their weight capacity so it’s worth considering this when looking for a pair that’s right for you.
This often looks better but generally doesn’t hold as much weight as a bracketed shelf, making it suitable for decorative purposes or holding a few books, but not so much for heavy-duty storage.
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If you knock on it and get a very solid and inflexible feeling that doesn't sound hollow, it will most likely be a brick or concrete masonry wall.
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You can tell if you've got a plasterboard wall if it sounds hollow when you knock on it, but these walls are generally supported by a frame so there will be vertical and horizontal sections that feel a little more solid.